13 Catskills and Hudson Valley Restaurants Worth the Detour 13 Catskills and Hudson Valley Restaurants Worth the Detour by Food & Wine
By Zachary Feldman
Idyllic and easily accessible for nature-starved New Yorkers and scores of other tourists, the Catskills and the Hudson Valley are home to a bounty of exceptional restaurants, more and more of which seem to come from NYCexpats who’ve chosen adorable main streets, rolling hills, and secluded country roads over noisy subway commutes. From nostalgic stalwarts dishing out old-school Americana to dramatic foraged-ingredient tasting menus at the boutique hotels and inns that have replaced the Catskills’ once-prolific Borsch Belt resorts, it all amounts to some of the best eating north of the five boroughs.
So, whether drawn in by autumn’s kaleidoscope of changing leaves, the promise of fireside snuggles in a snowy winter lodge, or a warm-weather upriver excursion, here’s where you’ll want to stop while taking in some of New York State’s most scenic routes.
BRUSHLAND EATING HOUSE
Backdropped by rolling hills in quiet, tiny Bovina Center, Brushland is the realized dream of former Brooklynites Sara Elbert and chef Sohail Zandi, who live upstairs and also Airbnb two apartments above and behind the restaurant, turning this eating house into a sleeping house. The restaurant’s menu is a mix of comfort food (cast-iron chicken with Syracuse-style salt potatoes, pork schnitzel over buttermilk-dressed salad) and small plates showcasing enviable local produce, like a simple bundle of roasted carrots over coarse-grained honey-almond dressing. Amazingly, despite word getting out, Elbert and Zandi have kept prices down, making dinner here something of a steal.
Brushland Eating House, 1927 Co Hwy 6, Bovina Center, NY 13740 (607) 832-4861
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